The alarm failed to alarm us. It was by chance that I was up around quarter past five and sounded my alarm to bala, “we are late”. Of course, we were late for our rendezvous with tigers and we hurriedly dressed and packed. It transpired that bala had set the alarm for 5 pm. A couple of pictures and videos here and there followed as we checked out and it was quarter to six when we checked out from gairal gates.
Early morning happens to be the best time to do “walk the talk” with tigers. Irshaad showed us lot of pug marks of male and female tigers all around but was still not willing to press on accelerator. We even saw a sambhar deer in an alert pose and irshaad was able to guess that the tiger was somewhere near. Meanwhile, hari’s jeep overtook us while we waited at a spot. Soon hari’s jeep came in full reverse mode and they excitedly told us about the spotting of a tigress which had crossed he track and run into the grassland. My heart was bleeding! If only we had maintained some decent speed, we would have spotted the tiger and taken few quick snaps. That was not to be! We all did a turn around and chose to wait near the grassland wherein a tusker was merrily roaming. Some more sambhars were in an uneasy state, these animals have a knack of smelling dangers. Hari’s jeep quicky left the scene while we waited there in hope of spotting the tigress. Alas! We decided to proceed further. As we carried on, a colleague of the driver with foreign tourists was waiting beneath a tree and we learnt that this party spotted the very same tigress after couple of hours. Indeed it is all game of passion! We had missed our best chance.
The previous we were in a dilemma as to whether we should leave early to ranikhet by bus or continue with the safari in the afternoon since we had paid and then take a car to ranikhet. The afternoon safari made things clear about the prospects of tiger sighting. Hence, we had decided not to take the afternoon safari and proceed by bus which was around four hour journey.
Clueless as to where the tigress might appear, we proceeded towards dhikala, to the reservoir area through a different track. We also visited the poppy fields and crossed ramganga river
and went further and saw more beautiful birds. We had our breakfast at dhikala (Maggie and butter toast) and lazed around by clicking monkeys. At dhikala we saw a beautiful bird in pink Capri and she made our day. She was traveling in the canter which is yet another option to see Corbett which operates from 6 am to 12 noon. Canter, is typically meant for those who do not have reservation within the park. We next hit the sambhar track and stopped at the machan (tower). Hereafter, we were on our way to dhangari gate, kissing goodbye to the forest. Bala had yet another agenda which he pressed, “bhaiya, let e drive the jeep for some time”. The driver did not budge and cited some administrative reason. By 11 am we were out and I left the forest promising “I’d be back to see the tigers”. Bala, once on the highway, again pressed on his agenda and this time irshaad gave the vehicle. Thankfully, bus to ranikhet cut short the drive and we boarded the bus.
This was my first visit to a wildlife sanctuary and Corbett forest indeed obliged us by revealing various flavors. We narrowly missed tiger spotting, ran into wild tusker, saw beautiful birds, enjoyed the coolness of sal trees and fragrance of poppy plant, ride on various tracks were exciting and view of ramganga and grasslands was riveting. But is it right to disturb the forest and animals natural habitat? This is so because we humans do not take lightly when tigers or leopards stray into our boundary.
Travel advice is book accomodation inside the park in advance and tourism department always routes accomodaion through agents in order to gain commissions. Try to stay atleast for 2 days and morning safaris are the best time to spot tigers. Try to get placed at dhikala which happens to be the heart of corbett. Gairal's disadvantage is the distance and also it does not have elephant ride option.
Before I wrap up this piece, more news about tiger population has flowed in; panna has zilch. Apparently tranquilizer overdose for collaring has been cited as reason which made poaching more easier. Some allied news: recently, jairam ramesh, the Minister of State for Environment and Forests, visited Corbett to assess the situation and in his first visit, he spotted a tigress. Given the sycophantic attitude of the forest officials, the tigress had to show herself before the minister. The “pug mark” method for counting the tiger also came under sharp attack. The project tiger stands disbanded and national tiger conservation authority has been set up. Committees and authorities are well known for chai and samosa discussions. It requires someone of indira gandhi’s stature to save our national animal. Can mr. singh save his needy counterpart?
Tiger poaching is a complex issue having wide web; the demand: for use in chupas (traditional vest coats of Tibetans, the poachers: paid by men like sansar chand and the savers: belinda wright , valmiki thapar to name a few. And of course the forest officials, rangers and other staff complete the picture. Click these links to read more:
http://www.indiatogether.org/2009/feb/env-sanchand.htm
http://www.newsweek.com/id/134268/page/2 http://tehelka.com/story_main38.asp?filename=Ne120408tale_tiger.asp
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